Isn't this pretty? Wouldn't you want to spend a few days looking at lighthouses and fog and crashing waves and sea birds? Well, we would and we did.
We rented the most charming cottage in Cape Elizabeth, ME, for a week to escape the heat, humidity, dirt, and noise of Philadelphia. The owner, an artist and gardener, met us and showed us around. Her talents are obvious at the cottage. The cottage has been completely updated and decorated in a casual, chintzy, antiquey style. It has new bathrooms (1.5), a new kitchen, and everything you might need or want to be comfortable.
The cottage is surrounded by gardens, with hydrangeas, ferns, turtlehead (a native favorite of mine and the bright pink flower above), touch-me-nots, and other plants. Our last morning there, we saw a deer up to her neck in ferns, just her long ears and dark eyes showing. We watched the squirrels, chipmunks, and little red squirrels. I will, however, never talk to you again if you rent the cottage when we want to rent it - which is all the time!
The road is private, so there's little traffic. It's very dark and very quiet at night. The cottage is less than 500' from a private cove. The cottage isn't oceanside, but you can see the ocean from the cottage. In the morning, I would lie in bed and watch the sun come up over the sea. At night, the sound of waves lulled us to sleep. I tried to buy the cottage, but she wouldn't sell! I don't blame her. It's paradise.
We walked to the cove every day and sometimes twice a day. Maine beaches are usually pebbly, as this one is. You could swim - if you dare to brave the frigid Maine water. (And if you can swim, which I cannot.) The ocean is endlessly fascinating. There are birds and boats to watch. The sea changes every few minutes. At the beginning of the week, there was fog, which meant fog horns, and which made me want to watch the old TV series Dark Shadows.
At this part of the coast, the rocks look like petrified trees. I was sure they were, but I found out they are 400-million-year-old silt formations. They still look like petrified trees to me.
Winslow Homer and Edward Hopper both painted here. Edward Hopper painted Two Lights Lighthouse, which is the one in the top photo. The coast abounds with lighthouses, and shipwrecks. Portland Head Light is a short drive away. You can go to Crescent Beach State Park, Two Lights State Park, or Fort Williams Park, all less than twenty minutes away. Two Lights was our favorite and the closest. This is Portland Head Light, which Hopper also painted.
Portland is less than a half hour drive and has restaurants, bars, shops, and is a nice old town down by the water. We always stop at Gritty McDuff's because an old friend of mine used to bartend there. Back in 1989, we were bartenders in Boston, and then she moved to Portland. Cape Elizabeth has at least two good restaurants, too. We were impressed and pleased by the two we ate at: The Good Table and Rudy's. C Salt Gourmet Market makes great sandwiches
There was also time to read. I read five books while we were there. I've posted about a couple of them. We sat on the open patio in the afternoons and read. Jack read his vacation book. I cannot understand people who only read on vacation - and yet I'm married to one. On the other hand, he probably can't understand why I can't keep my nose out of several books at one time.
Here are some random photos of the fog and the rocks. Most of the days we were there, the sun was shining, but I, being photophobic, prefer the foggy days. I already miss everything about Cape Elizabeth, Maine, and can't wait to go back.
Gorgeous! What a nice time away you had!
ReplyDeleteIt was just the break we needed. We also saw old friends in MA on our way back and that made the trip extra special.
DeleteIt looks very like the UK to me, lovely photos and I must look out for turtlehead plants (Chelone) I looked it up in my RHS book as I had never heard of it before. I think I should be able to grow it here.
ReplyDeleteI much prefer the Maine shoreline to the Mid-Atlantic beaches. The Maine coast is so much more interesting. I don't think the Mid-Atlantic beaches get much, if any, fog, and I like fog.
DeleteChelone is a native wetland plant here. They look sort of like big snap dragons, don't they. I can't remember if I planted any in Marshfield, but I was delighted when one showed up on its own on the bank of the river behind our house.
Wow, so I do need to get up there.
ReplyDeleteIf you like cool weather, fog, crashing waves, rocky beaches, then, yes, you should go. It's different in the summer, of course. I'm sure there are more people and it's hotter, but the rocky beaches and lighthouses are still there and I'm sure it's cooler than Philly. The cottage we stayed in was quiet and peaceful, a great antidote to Philly.
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